Powdery Mildew

A fungal disease which is found throughout North America, powdery mildew is easily recognizable by its white or greyish, talcum powder-like circles appearing on leaves, flowers and fruits of various vegetables, fruits, perennials and shrubs. The list includes roses, lilacs, dahlias, begonias, delphiniums, phlox, monarda (bee balm), euphorbias (spurge), catalpa (bean tree), zinnias…as well as squash, cucumbers, beans, peas, melons, apples, pears, strawberries, gooseberries, and grapes.

Zucchini ‘Dark Star’ with powdery mildew

Leaves covered by powdery mildew cannot manufacture enough food which can impact on plant growth and fruit development, depending on the rate of infection. But rarely does the mildew kill the plant. It just looks horrible.

There are a number of different fungi species responsible for powdery mildew. Some are species specific, others will attack a wider range of plant varieties. In regions of high humidity and moderate temperatures, the fungi produce mycelium and spores on the surface of affected foliage. The spores are then carried by wind currents to other plants.

Strangely enough, it is the wind which will reduce the risk of fungal infection. Providing adequate spacing between plants will increase air circulation and decrease the moisture retention on the leaves. Opening up shaded areas to more sunlight will also help.

Autumn is another trying time of year for protecting our plants and crops from powdery mildew. A lot of fungi spores repose in the soil and come fall, the rains splashing up onto the plants will often carry a few spores with the droplets.

No matter the time of year, once a plant has been infected, the mycelium will continue to spread on the leaf surface regardless of the moisture conditions.

And there is no known cure for powdery mildew…only prevention and a modicum of control once it appears. Best line of defence is to remove the affected leaves as soon as you spot them. Always put the infected plant parts in the garbage. Never put them in the compost unless you have a very hot pile.

To prevent powdery mildew on susceptible plants, mix up either of the following recipes. Both are reasonably effective.

Recipe #1:

One part cow’s milk
Nine parts water

Combine ingredients in a sprayer, if you have a lot of plants to treat…or a spray bottle if treating just one or two. Will have to be repeated after each rainfall.

 

Recipe #2:

1 gal water
1 tbsp baking soda
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp dish soap

Combine all ingredients, in order as listed, in a sprayer or spray bottle. Preferably apply this mixture on cloudy days with no threat of rain. Applying on sunny days risks sunburn on the leaves.

Will protect the plant longer because of the addition of vegetable oil and soap in this recipe. However, it must be reapplied after a few rainfalls, or an especially hard downpour.

 

Submitted by Leslie Cox
CVHS member and writer as the “Duchess of Dirt”

June 5, 2015 – Gardens of the Cowichan Valley

A wonderful day spent touring lovely gardens and a couple of nurseries. Many thanks to our two wonderful CVHS volunteers who organized this trip.

Destination: Gardens of the Cowichan Valley
Date: Friday, June 5, 2015
Time: TBA
Cost: $65.00

Oops! The bus is not quite full yet! Don’t delay! This is a day-long tour of private gardens in the Cowichan Valley. There are still a few seats left on the bus for this fun trip to the picturesque Cowichan Valley. (You must be a CVHS member.)

For more information and to book a seat on this tour, please refer to Page 6 in the April 2015 edition of the CVHS Newsletter.

Oct. 16, 2016 – Mushroom ID Walk

Mushroom ID Walk / Workshop with Kem Luther,
in conjunction with local expert, Alison Maingnon

Date:  Sunday October 16, 2016
Time: 2:00 to 4:30 pm
Cost: $15 per person

Enjoy a 1 ½ hour walk with Kem Luther and Alison Maingnon, searching for mushrooms along a local trail. After, we will regroup at an indoor central Courtenay location to warm up, examine any specimens we have collected, and ask Kem and/or Alison any questions.

Minimum number of participants: 10    Maximum: 15

To register, contact Joan Wynden, Program Chair at program@comoxvalleyhortsociety.ca

** Payment must be made to complete your registration  **

 Once you have paid for your participation, your fee is non-refundable. However, if you cannot make the Mushroom ID Walk, you can transfer it to another current CVHS member.

Payment can be made in one of two ways:

1) Drop off cash or a cheque at 55 Rod & Gun Road, Courtenay, BC (Joan’s home)
2) Send an eTransfer to program@comoxvalleyhortsociety.ca

You will receive an email confirmation your payment has been received and you are registered. This will also include details (including instructions/maps) of where we will meet at the trailhead and the indoor location we will gather after the walk.

Workshop will run rain or shine, so please dress accordingly.

For insurance reasons, this workshop is open to current CVHS members ONLY.

 

Uploaded on October 12, 2016

How to Freeze Fresh Basil Leaves

Remove basil leaves from stems. Immerse them in a cool water bath and swish to remove debris and any bugs that may have hitch-hiked inside.

Fill your salad spinner with washed leaves and gently spin dry. (Doing this in smaller batches will help to remove the water droplets better.) Lay leaves out on clean, dry towels to finish drying. You can speed this up by gently patting the leaves with another clean, dry towel.

Once leaves are completely dry, fill a small or medium freezer bag about three quarters full. (A non-zip freezer bag works best for this.)

Gather up the neck of the bag tightly in the circle between thumb and forefinger. With finger from other hand, make a small opening in the neck of the bag. Blow air into the bag until it is fully extended to its limits. Quickly squeeze the neck of the bag shut to trap the air inside, and tie the bag shut securely with a twist tie.

Label the bag with the date, and type of basil species if you prefer. Place in the freezer.

Note: Be sure to keep all of your frozen basil at the top of your chest freezer. Piling anything on top of them risks expulsion of air from the bags, thus damaging your basil supply.

Frozen basil leaves will keep for a year, or more…but best to use up this year’s supply and replenish your stock with fresh leaves you freeze for the following winter’s use. (But good to know it will keep, just in case you do have a crop failure next year. Heaven forbid!)

Oh…and when you go to use your frozen basil leaves…open the bag and remove the amount needed for your recipe. Immediately, blow air into the bag following the method noted above, and secure the bag shut once again. Place the bag back in the freezer right away before the remaining leaves thaw.

 

Article submitted by Leslie Cox
CVHS member and writer as the “Duchess of Dirt”

Dealing with Green Tomatoes

October and it is high time all those tomatoes were picked off the vines in the greenhouse, regardless if they are still green. Tomatoes need a constant overnight temperature of 15.5 °C for proper growth and ripening. Lower temps sustained for longer than a week will cause growth problems, such as splitting, and delay ripening.

Green tomatoes can still be rescued and ripened indoors for fresh eating through the winter. One of the best methods is to place them in a single layer in newspaper-lined beer flats and cover them with a couple of layers of newspaper to keep them in the dark. (Tomatoes can be stacked two to three layers high if you are using deeper boxes, as long as you keep the heavier tomatoes on the bottom, and cover each layer with newspaper. However, for ease of regular checking for ripe tomatoes, the beer flats really work much better. And they stack wonderfully if you place each flat crosswise to the previous flat.)

Place the flats of green tomatoes in an unheated basement, or somewhere where it is relatively cool. Some people use their 2nd fridge but the tomatoes should really be kept at a slightly warmer temp than 4 °C.

Be sure to check through all of the flats on a weekly basis for ripened fruits. Such a treat in the middle of winter. So full of flavour.

 

Article submitted by Leslie Cox
CVHS member and writer as the “Duchess of Dirt” 

October Garden Chores

A list of chores to do this month:

  • It’s apple season! Store your harvest at 0 °C to 7 °C (32 °F to 45 °F). Some varieties will keep longer than others, so regularly check they are not spoiling.
  • Make sure to dry your beans well before storing in a moisture-proof, airtight container for making those soups and chili dishes over the winter.
  • Make sure your onions are dry and wiped clean of all dirt. Store away from apples and potatoes where it is cool and dry. Again, some varieties are better keepers than others.
  • Root Crops. Clean your potatoes, carrots, beets, etc. of any soil. Store in a cool, dark place. If you clip the tops off of your carrots, beets, parsnips, etc., they will stay fresher longer. (Some people like to store their root crops in sand-filled tubs.)
  • Squash and pumpkins should be washed with a 10 % bleach solution and wiped dry thoroughly for storing. They should be stored at 10 °C to 15 °C (50 °F to 65 °F).
  • Time to dig up the tender plants for storing, such as dahlias, canna lilies, begonia tubers, etc.
  • Right time to plant the spring-flowering bulbs, if you did not get this done last month. Put markers of some sort where you have planted your bulbs and late-flowering perennials. That way you will not dig them up in your spring enthusiasm.
  • Still time to divide and move those overgrown perennials.
  • Get on with the Fall clean-up schedule in the garden. Cut back those herbaceous perennials which are dying back, such as hostas. Put any plant debris which is showing signs of serious disease such as botrytis in the garbage, or on the burn pile.
  • Those piles of falling leaves. They are a wonderful, protective mulch for any borderline hardy perennials you may have snuck into your landscape design. Leaves are also great for protecting soil erosion from winter rains.
  • Good time to start some Paperwhite bulbs indoors now.
  • If you have kept last year’s poinsettia, and stored it in a dark closet, now is the time to bring it out into the light so it will produce those lovely, colourful bracts at Christmas.
  • Check your climbing roses are securely tied to their trellis so as not to risk any broken branches during the winter storms.
  • Put your garden furniture under cover to ensure longer life.
  • And for goodness sakes! Plant that garlic now!

 

Article submitted by Leslie Cox
CVHS member and writer as the “Duchess of Dirt”